Explained in plain words
A lost title is the most fixable title problem there is — if you are the owner of record. The duplicate application is the whole trick, and it belongs to the titled owner (or the lienholder), never to a buyer, a seller's cousin, or anyone with a bill of sale. What changes by state is the form, the fee, and the wait.
Find the titling office (a motor-vehicle agency in most states, a housing department in California, Texas, Nevada, and Oregon's building-codes program). File the duplicate application exactly as the original title read. Show ID. Pay the verified fee. Wait out any mandatory hold. The duplicate voids the original — if the 'lost' title turns up later, it is scrap.
Florida: first check whether your title is electronic — an electronic title is not lost, it just needs a paper print. A truly lost paper title takes Form HSMV 82101, filed with the county tax collector, at the verified fee on the Florida page.
North Carolina: Form MVR-4, notarized, and a mandatory 15-day wait before the duplicate can be issued — a sale cannot close faster than that clock, so start it the day the loss is discovered.
An unreleased lien sends the duplicate to the lienholder, not to you. A name that does not match the record stalls the filing. And if you are not the owner of record, stop: your route is the never-transferred branch or the bonded branch, not the duplicate form.
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General information about how the process works in your state — not legal advice. For a contested eviction, a park-sale fight, or a title dispute with a lienholder, a local attorney or legal-aid office is the next step.